High season at Eelbedrijf Borremans: in-house chef elevates fish to a culinary delicacy (Puurs-Sint-Amands)

Anyone standing in front of the counter of the store at Borremans Paling-Vis-Haring in Puurs-Sint-Amands can almost see them writhing. The eels swim in about 20 fish tanks in the hall behind the glass. “They are taken out of the basin here in the morning and are, so to speak, already on the plate in the evening. It couldn’t be fresher,” Hans beams. “Man has never succeeded in reproducing eels in captivity, only in a laboratory in Japan. That is why we import eel from the Netherlands, France and even New Zealand, the United States or Scandinavia. We raise him in these containers. With a unique system we challenge the eel to convert its fat into muscle via water currents. In this way we breed an eel that closely resembles the wild species.”

“I traveled all over Europe with my father in the van to deliver eels”

Frans Borremans

Father

Father Frans removes some animals from the pool with a landing net. “Eels are born near the Sargasso Sea in the Atlantic Ocean,” he explains. “The larvae make a journey of 6,000 kilometers to Europe. Along the way they evolve into glass eels and are caught. Commercial eel fishing is prohibited in Belgium because there are still too few eels in our rivers. We do have a fisherman who has fish traps just across the border at Doel, in the Netherlands where controlled eel fishing is allowed. That’s almost Antwerp eel (smiles).”

With the dog cart to the city

The family returned in 2021 to the place where the company once started: Puurs-Sint-Amands, where Hans and Wim’s great-great-grandfather caught eels to feed his family. “There used to be creeks between the fields that were fed by the Scheldt and were the ideal habitat for this fish,” Wim explains. “Until the nineteenth century, eel – and other fish – were part of the menu. After a while, a barter trade developed: eel was exchanged with neighbors for potatoes or meat.”

“Our great-grandfather, Frans Borremans, took over his father’s business, but wanted to sell the catch for a profit. With his dog cart he went to cities such as Mechelen and Antwerp to sell the fish there,” says Hans. “During the First World War, fishing came to a standstill, but after the war they were able to expand their business. The eels were stored in the Scheldt by means of hoppers (a container with holes for keeping fish alive, ed.) until they were sold. They wanted to continue that strategy after the Second World War, but the creeks were too polluted due to the war. All the eels died. Because the stock became so low, prices rose and the eel disappeared from the menu of ordinary people.”

Peat pits in Overmere-Donk

That is why the family moved to the Donkmeer in Berlare for more than sixty years. Frans still remembers that time. “When I was ten years old, I was already fishing for eels on the banks,” he says. “We stored the imported fish in bins and removed them from the water with nets. That was tough in the winter. When the lake was frozen over, we had to punch holes in the ice to give the fish oxygen. The water froze between our gloves. We sold the eel to restaurants and wholesalers. I often crossed Europe with my father in the van to deliver eel.”

“All those investments cost a lot of money, but now we are happy that we can reduce our ecological footprint”

Hans Borremans

Manager

Hans joined the business at the age of eighteen, when Frans’ brother died of cancer. “Our site in Berlare became too small and so we bought this company. Next to the existing building we will build a new building with a storage space and shop. The herring pickling plant also continued to operate,” he says. It was just before the corona pandemic, but the managers still wanted to invest in sustainability. Wim: “As folkloric as it was on the Donkmeer, it is now as modern here. Solar panels on the roof, an environmentally friendly CO2 installation, a system that recycles 95 percent of the water… All these investments cost a lot of money, but now we are happy that we can reduce our ecological footprint and save energy.”

Gourmet dishes

Customers also realize that they are in the paradise of eels here. Even on a Tuesday, the fish shop is never empty at any time. “I ran a fish shop in Antwerp for thirty years,” says Patrick. “When they were looking for someone here, I didn’t hesitate. I live near here.” And so he still sells sea bream, sea bass or sole. “And eel. Make no mistake: it is still well eaten. Customers regularly ask how best to prepare it. I am happy to give them tips for preparation.” But isn’t it mainly the older generation that likes a piece of eel? “The audience for this fish continues,” says Nicole. “Grandparents often pass the recipe on to their grandchildren. The ready-made versions are also appreciated. Heat it up at home and you’re done!”

The company has been employing a chef for several weeks now. Nils Delvaux worked for a long time at Café D’O – now Restaurant Rollier – in Bornem and as sous-chef at gastronomic restaurant Fine Fleur in Antwerp. When he became a dad, he decided to give his life a new direction. “Here I can work during the day and don’t have to work weekends. I also live in Puurs-Sint-Amands. Ideal!” And so he passes on his gastronomic knowledge. Every week he puts dishes on the menu for the fish shop. “I certainly felt like working with eel,” he smiles. He fills a plate with a spoon. Never before have we seen such a bright green version of eel in green. “I’m not an eel expert, but this dish is great. And without dyes!”, Frans responds. “You would lick up the sauce.”

“The recipe for eel in green does not exist, everyone prepares it slightly differently”

Nils Delvaux

Chef

And what is the secret? “The recipe for eel in green does not exist, everyone prepares it slightly differently. This includes chervil, spinach, coriander and chives,” Nils reveals. “But I’m not going to reveal my recipe. It is based on recipes I learned in previous jobs, but I gave it my own twist.” In addition to this classic, he has developed a version of eel with cream, tarragon and a dash of Ricard and one with tomato sauce and Madeira wine. “We would also like to eventually sell the ready-made dishes to restaurants or supermarkets.”

Two new stores

The Borremans company still sees a future in the eel trade. “Eel sales have fallen in recent years, mainly due to higher sales prices. A kilogram of eel costs almost as much as a steak,” says Hans. “Still, I believe in our future. About 80 percent of our eel goes to fish wholesalers, we supply some to restaurants and we sell about 10 percent in fish shops and through our webshop. Because we want to expand our focus on direct sales to customers, we will open a store in Heffen, near Mechelen, on June 28 and a fish shop in Halle in November. And of course there will soon be the Eel Festival in Mariekerke again. Of the 8,000 kilograms of eel served there, about 4,000 kilograms comes from us.”

www.borremanspvh.beInstagram: @borremans_paling_vis_haringEel Festival Mariekerke takes place from May 18 to 20 (www.palingfestival.be)