Can wellness perfumes like ‘More Sex’ and ‘Joyphoria’ deliver on their promises? “Scents have an effect on how we feel” | Fashion & Beauty
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Charlotte Tilbury launched six wellness perfumes at the end of last week. Not your average bottles, but bottles that, in addition to a nice scent, also promise you more sex, romance, joy and energy. They don’t just do that: the brand worked together with neuroscientists and a psychologist. But can perfume really do something like this?
The time when a nice scent – and possibly Julia Roberts’ toothpaste smile – was enough to convince us when purchasing a perfume is far behind us. After the functional fragrances (scents that aim to boost our mood) there are now also neuroscents: perfumes with specific neurological effects. They would manipulate our brains in such a way that they can influence emotions and behavior. And that is exactly what the new fragrances from Charlotte Tilbury do: they mix and match specific scent molecules that have a proven effect on our brain, and therefore on how we feel.
Aromachology
With unmistakable names like ‘More Sex’, ‘Love Frequency’, ‘Joyphoria’, ‘Calm Bliss’ and ‘Magic Energy’ you almost want it to work. And it does (Spoiler: To a point). However, perfume expert Kristof Lefebre would not call it new. “Shiseido launched one back in 1999 energizing and relaxing perfume. We have realized for much longer than today that scents have an effect on how we feel. That’s called science aromachology.”
“What is new is that it is mentioned very explicitly in the marketing. Neurologists have been working on this for much longer. It is the first time that this knowledge is shared with the general public and a product is effectively built around it, which is then explicitly linked to the needs we have today: ‘this scent will calm you down’, ‘this bottle gives more self-confidence’, or ‘this perfume will help you sleep better’.
You can think of scent molecules as keys that fit on certain locks – or scent receptors – in our nose
Perfume expert Kristof Lefebre
More than marketing
Smart marketing and mostly hot air? No. This has even been demonstrated several times. “Scientists can measure very objectively whether something effectively reduces stress: by looking at how quickly you sweat, the cortisol level in your saliva, your heart rhythm or your brain activity.” Because no matter how you look at it: your brain plays a major role. And that has everything to do with the way we process scent.
Kristof Lefebre: “You can think of scent molecules as keys that fit on certain locks – or scent receptors – in our nose. Once the two have found each other, a signal goes to the brain. In this case, it is sent directly to the limbic brain, not coincidentally the part of our brain that is responsible for our memories and emotions.” So it is very logical that perfume has an impact on our feelings. But do you need such a specific neuroscent for it? Not that. “In theory, your favorite perfume can also be a stress reliever. After all, a perfume that you like will definitely boost your mood.”
Personal
Moreover, and perhaps most importantly, the scent experience is extremely personal. Precisely because scents are so closely linked to our memories and feelings, it is difficult to generalize. “Now take lavender. Research shows that most people experience this as calming. But a cleaning lady who has worked all her life with cleaning products that smell like lavender will probably become less zen.”
“Another example: citrus scents are the so-called happy notes. But a handful of people don’t think they smell nice at all. On the other hand: if you do yoga every week and smell the same scent every time, there is a good chance that you will associate that perfume with peace, while there may be no scientific evidence for this at all.”
That is precisely why it is difficult to speak of a therapeutic effect. Think of perfume as an invisible personal coach that you carry with you and gives you a certain feeling. And choose based on your intuition. You can be guided by specific neuroscents or some general rules, but decide based on what you find pleasant. Because that really works.
A general guideline:
Scientific research saw an effect with the following fragrance molecules:
– neroli and grapefruit reduce stress – rosemary increases alertness – sandalwood and chamomile have a calming effect – mint reduces mental stress – lavender promotes sleep – jasmine increases well-being and romantic feelings
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